This little piggy went:
to the market - smart shopping class (10:00-10:30)
stayed home - crafts you can learn to make at home (10:30-11:30)
had roast beef - lunch! (11:30-12:00)
had none - make a wonder oven or attend a 72 hour preparation class (12:00-1:00)
cried wee, wee, wee - first aid kits/emergency first aid tips (1:00-1:45)
Sign-up sheets available for:
Temple name bracelet clip: 1st one free (additional bracelets $1.25 each)
Soap dispensers with a cute message: $2.00 each
Brown sugar body scrub:$2.50 each
Wonder Oven: $14.00 (bring 3 yards of material)
First Aid Kit: $19.00
Money is due by Sunday, September 4th
Wednesday, August 31, 2011
Tuesday, August 23, 2011
Self Reliance Tip # 24 Washboards are hard work!
I've been reading a bit of family history. My dad shared a book with me called, "The Ring of the Anvil". It is about the family of my Great Great Grandparents Joseph Smith Hancock and Emily Davis Wallace Hancock. I tell ya what....I live a cushy life.
When their oldest daughter Hannah Ida was 14 her mother Emily died in a wagon accident. Ida cleaned, cooked, and did laundry for 10 siblings and her father. Joseph never remarried. Ida's daughter remembers, "I don't think I ever hated anything as much as that washboard because I've spent so any hours washing clothes on one. To this day, I do not have a washboard in my house and I never will."
When I go into an antique store a thrill goes up my spine when I see a washboard (...I know, I know). I bought one and I've used one. It reminds me of days past and I just think it is cool. However, if I HAD to use it to do as much laundry as Ida...I'd probably hate it too :).
Last week I shared one recipe that I've used to do laundry with. Here is a link to several more laundry soap recipes.
http://tipnut.com/10-homemade-laundry-soap-detergent-recipes/
In my experience if you choose to add a fragrance oil or essential oil to your laundry to help it smell pretty, add a few drops to a washcloth when you are putting them in the dryer. If it is added to the laundry soap, it "washes" out. That's what you're doing right? Cleaning out dirt and odor (if it is good or bad) :)
And another thing...
How in the world do you rotate powdered milk? You wouldn't actually want to drink the stuff...would you?
I've been experimenting with this and have found that when my gallon of "store bought" milk is about half gone, I will add as much powdered milk as it asks for to make 2 quarts (on my can it says 2 2/3 cups powdered milk) - then I do a fun little shaking dance and then add water to fill it back up. I will give it another good shake or two and put it back in the fridge.
I have done this several times and no one has EVEN noticed. Not even Austin the picky pants. Don't get me wrong, I love the little guy. But if it passes his test, it passes the whole family.
Here is one more idea:
http://9fordinner.blogspot.com/2011/01/bit-more-buttermilk.html
Go to this link to see how Jenny buys a small container of buttermilk, then adds powdered milk to it to create a whole gallon of buttermilk. This is a great money-saving tip, and a great way to use your food storage powdered milk.
It Back!!
For those who ever wondered what happened to Bountiful Baskets in the Gila Valley, wonder no more.
You can order today for the delivery to be here on Saturday.
There is a new pick up site - it is now at the Safford Lion's Club.
For those who are not familiar with Bountiful Baskets it is a whole sale food co-op. They offer a basket of fruit and veggies for $15 that would normally cost easily twice that. Their bread is AWESOME too.
For offerings this week here is the link: http://www10.bountifulbaskets.org/?page_id=8
You can order today for the delivery to be here on Saturday.
There is a new pick up site - it is now at the Safford Lion's Club.
For those who are not familiar with Bountiful Baskets it is a whole sale food co-op. They offer a basket of fruit and veggies for $15 that would normally cost easily twice that. Their bread is AWESOME too.
For offerings this week here is the link: http://www10.bountifulbaskets.org/?page_id=8
Lawrence Sabin
Hello Ladies,
Millie Sabin's husband Lawrence passed away yesterday. His funeral is going to be held Friday at 10am at the Solomonville Chapel. I will send out more info as soon as I recieve it from his family. We are going to need help with the family meal so if you are available to do so please respond to this email or call Mary Allyce at 322-5778. We will need potatoes, salad, and cake.
Thank you all!
Millie Sabin's husband Lawrence passed away yesterday. His funeral is going to be held Friday at 10am at the Solomonville Chapel. I will send out more info as soon as I recieve it from his family. We are going to need help with the family meal so if you are available to do so please respond to this email or call Mary Allyce at 322-5778. We will need potatoes, salad, and cake.
Thank you all!
Wednesday, August 17, 2011
Preserving our Liberty
"I testify to you that God's hand has been in our destiny. I testify that freedom as we know it today is being threatened as never before in our history. I further witness that this land—the Americas—must be protected, its Constitution upheld, for this is a land foreordained to be the Zion of our God. He expects us as members of the Church and bearers of His priesthood to do all we can to preserve our liberty."
--Ezra Taft Benson, "A Witness and a Warning,", Ensign, Nov. 1979, 31
Ether 2:12 America The Beautiful, Hymn #338
--Ezra Taft Benson, "A Witness and a Warning,", Ensign, Nov. 1979, 31
Ether 2:12 America The Beautiful, Hymn #338
Self Reliance Tip # 23 Tergent or detergent.. that is the question!
My mind has been caught up a lot thinking about the happenings in America when the signs of the death of Christ had been given. In 3 Nephi 8: 24 it says, "And in one place they were heard to cry, saying: O that we had repented before this great and terrible day, and then would our brethren [and sisters] have been spared..."
In remembering "If ye are prepared (temporally and spiritually) ye shall not fear..." (D&C38:30) - there is no "if only I had..." Just a thought.
In my "Plan B" laundry trial and error, I have tried several recipes for making my own laundry detergent. I even think one was shared at a Relief Society activity. I have seen them made wet and dry each having their own pros and cons. In the video shared last week the Sister LDS Prepper said she would NOT make her own. In what ever way you choose, your life will be easier if you have a sufficient storage of laundry detergent.
With the recipes I've tried, there didn't seem to be enough soap to actually break down the oils and dirt. So, I had an idea. This is what I've come up with. It is less expensive than buying "Tide", but not as inexpensive as other recipes I've used. So, here ya go.
1 small box of Arm and Hammer unscented detergent
1 box of borax
1/2 box washing soda (not baking soda)
Mix it together with a wire wisk in a small bucket (I used something to cover my nose and mouth because it is rather powdery) . If you double it, it will fill a 5 gallon bucket about half full.
Sister Leiah also told me that Costo sells a 5 gallon bucket size for a very reasonable price.
And another thing...
Well, yesterday marked a milestone in my efforts to become more self-reliant. I have stored a [one] year supply of basic necessities according to the calculator provided by the church for the size of family I have. You can find that here.
http://www.providentliving.org/content/display/0,11666,7498-1-4070-1,00.html
It took me about two years of planning, preparing, and saving but I did do it.
Am I "done" yet? Nope. I want to eat more than beans, rye, oats and salt.
However, it IS time to do the "Year Supply Dance" - I'll let you know when I get the steps down for it...so when you're ready, I'll teach it to you :). I am quite the dancer as I'm sure you could guess. I was an Eastern Arizona College Choraleer ....years ago. Paahahahahhahaha.....
Self Reliance Tip # 22 Wha'cha got a washin?
Hey good lookin'! Wha'cha got washin'?
This month's goal - Wash one batch of laundry without your washer. Yes, Sister Cindy, you can do just a batch of stockings. If you're going to wear them again, I wouldn't recommend using them to sprout some seeds :).
I could tell from all the eyes rolling on Sunday that laundry is not a hot topic when it means doing it by hand (laundry is never a hot topic now that I think about it). You will thank yourself over and over that you have a backup JUST IN CASE!
Last week for 5 days I had no washer. It stopped working because of one little tiny switch. I've "mickey moused" it until I can get a replacement part. Sister Charlotte knows my pain. So for five days I got to practice. Yippie Ki - yi- yea!! My kids even got to join in...they were so excited (ok not really - but they realized for 10 seconds that if you put clean clothes in the laundry, you double the work load).
I found this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k405br7_Wto
I haven't been able to find the galvanized tubs like the video shows, but I did have 9 gallon plastic tubs that I used with my plunger. I switched to the 9 gallon as opposed to the bucket I had tried before because it fits more laundry. The 9 gallon tubs will fit about half a regular sized batch as opposed to 1/4 batch that the bucket can do.
I would still like to get one of the plungers in the video - some comments I've read said that denim pants will tear the rubber plungers - though I haven't had that problem yet. I plan to get one here:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002QUAPSO/ref=s9_simh_gw_p79_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=1PTSN8QQE8SNVQQ24VWJ&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=470938631&pf_rd_i=507846
I looked up the wringer that they have and....I think I'd rather twist them with my kids to get extra water out. I don't need a wringer that bad. In some of the comments someone said you can get them at Home Depot, I have looked online and at our local store and no luck. If you find one for a good price, let me know. Another thought is to get a mop wringer for less and could even save the grey water for toilets or watering plants etc.
Here's one I found:
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Rubbermaid-Commercial-Yellow-Wavebrake-Side-Press-Mop-Bucket-Wringer-Combo-26-qt/16351977
Have fun with it!
And another thing...
A few years ago we had a Relief Society activity where we talked about preparedness. One of the classes was about gathering copies of important documents and having them in a three ring binder ready to go in case of an evacuation etc. (like my mother-in-law or Sister Georgia experienced recently). What would you put in it? What would your priorities be?
Saturday, August 6, 2011
Uncertianties and Challenges
"In many of the uncertainties and challenges we encounter in our lives, God requires us to do our best, to act and not be acted upon , and to trust in Him. We may not see angels, hear heavenly voices, or receive overwhelming spiritual impressions. We frequently may press forward hoping and praying—but without absolute assurance—that we are acting in accordance with God’s will. But as we honor our covenants and keep the commandments, as we strive ever more consistently to do good and to become better, we can walk with the confidence that God will guide our steps."
--David A. Bednar, "The Spirit of Revelation", April 2011 General Conference
D&C 121:45 Go Forth with Faith, Hymn #263
--David A. Bednar, "The Spirit of Revelation", April 2011 General Conference
D&C 121:45 Go Forth with Faith, Hymn #263
Friday, August 5, 2011
Funerals
Hello Lovely Ladies!
Just wanted to inform you of the latest goings on in the Ward...
George Mayfield passed away Tuesday evening from a massive heart attack. He is Nellie Mayfield's son. His viewing will be held Tuesday the 9th 6 pm at Caldwell Funeral Home. His Funeral will be Wednesday the 10th at 10am in the Solomonville Chapel.
Also Thella Montierth passed away Tuesday and her funeral is scheduled for next Saturday the 13th. I will give you more information on this one when I receive it.
We will be passing around a sign up sheet this Sunday for all who can help with the family meal for each of these funerals.
Thank you all for everything you do!
Love,
Brandi
Just wanted to inform you of the latest goings on in the Ward...
George Mayfield passed away Tuesday evening from a massive heart attack. He is Nellie Mayfield's son. His viewing will be held Tuesday the 9th 6 pm at Caldwell Funeral Home. His Funeral will be Wednesday the 10th at 10am in the Solomonville Chapel.
Also Thella Montierth passed away Tuesday and her funeral is scheduled for next Saturday the 13th. I will give you more information on this one when I receive it.
We will be passing around a sign up sheet this Sunday for all who can help with the family meal for each of these funerals.
Thank you all for everything you do!
Love,
Brandi
Hope
"Hope is an emotion which brings richness to our everyday lives. It is defined as “the feeling that … events will turn out for the best.” When we exercise hope, we “look forward … with desire and reasonable confidence” As such, hope brings a certain calming influence to our lives as we confidently look forward to future events."
--Elder Steven E. Snow, "Hope", April 2011 General Conference
John 15:12–14 Our Savior's Love, Hymn #113
--Elder Steven E. Snow, "Hope", April 2011 General Conference
John 15:12–14 Our Savior's Love, Hymn #113
December Gardening Tips
December Gardening Article
by Neil DeWitt
This month I will discuss the topic of using organic fertilizers. Today organic” this-and that” seems to be the craze. No place should organic be more applicable than in one’s home garden. We have already taken a huge step towards providing our family with more healthy produce when we grow it ourselves, but when you do it without the use of commercial fertilizers you know for certainty that you are doing the best you can for your family and at the same time, helping to protect the environment.
Organic fertilizers differ from conventional chemical fertilizers in several ways. Of course they are organic as opposed to being chemical formulations, so when you buy a chemical fertilizer, that is pretty much all you get, while most organic fertilizers provide you with a smorgasbord of nutrients important to plants. Another difference between chemical and organic fertilizers is in how they feed plants. Chemical fertilizers are generally water-soluble, so plants can use the nutrients immediately. However, most organic fertilizers, in contrast, must be degraded by soil microorganisms before their nutrients become soluble and can be taken up by the plants’ roots. And this is a good thing because the same warmth and moisture that coaxes plants to grow also encourages those microorganisms to work. The result being, that organic fertilizer feeds plants in synch with plants’ needs. Another benefit to the fact that most organic fertilizers are at first insoluble is that rain or irrigation tends not to leach away the fertilizers’ nutrients quickly and thus they often will last an entire season.
And finally, a benefit to be had by utilizing organic fertilizers is that they are more environmentally responsible than using chemical fertilizers because the production of these commercial fertilizers usually require the use of petrochemicals for their manufacture. On the other hand, many organic fertilizers are simply byproducts or waste products. Recycling them is not only environmentally sound, by it also costs less, in fact, these are sometimes even “free” for the hauling!
Since most nutrients in organic fertilizers aren’t immediately available to feed your plants, you need to plan ahead when using them. The ideal time to apply organic fertilizers is between late fall and late winter. Thus, the timeliness of this topic falls into the timeframe of our December gardening article. If the organic fertilizer is applied during the winter months, all you have to do is sprinkle or scatter the matter on top of your garden’s soil and it’ll be ready for plants to use when they are planted or they awaken in the spring. There is no need to dig the fertilizer into the soil, thus saving on your labor. The one exception to this would be a fertilizer applied specifically to add phosphorus to your soil. It will need to be spaded into the soil because of the fact that phosphorus moves very slowly through soil and thus it won’t feed your plants’ roots which are usually one or two feet deep in the soil.
You can buy organic fertilizers that supply mostly one major nutrient, or you can buy a blend that supplies one or more of all three of the major nutrients: nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. All organic fertilizers also offer micronutrients, which are just as important as the major nutrients, but are needed only in tiny amounts. Keep in mind that organic fertilizers do not address the need for adding additional organic matter such as compost, leaves, and other bulky natural materials to your soil to improve your soil aeration and water-holding capacity. Although these organic materials do, in fact, also help to release nutrients as they decompose, but they release it at such a low percentage that they are not rightly called fertilizers.
Here is a list of some commonly used organic fertilizers available at most garden centers:
Fertilizer Nitrogen % Phosphorus % Potassium % Fertilizer Nitrogen % Phosphorus % Potassium %
Alfalfa meal 3 3 2 Manure, cow 0.25 0.15 0.5
Guano 12 15 2 Manure, horse 0.3 0.15 0.5
Blood meal 15 1 1 Peat 2 0.3 0.8
Bone meal 4 20 0 Rock Phosphate 0 33 0
Compost 2 1 2 Seaweed 2 1 9
Fish emulsion 4 3 2 Cottonseed meal 7 2 2
Granite dust 0 0 5 Wood ashes 0 2 5
Greensand 0 1 6 Worm castings 1 0 0
TIP: Use soluble organic fertilizers such as fish emulsion or seaweed extract when your plants
need a fast acting fertilizer for an emergency feeding.
____________________________________
Suffer Not a Weed: Remove weeds while they’re small. A mature weed that goes to seed can produce thousand of new weeds!
by Neil DeWitt
This month I will discuss the topic of using organic fertilizers. Today organic” this-and that” seems to be the craze. No place should organic be more applicable than in one’s home garden. We have already taken a huge step towards providing our family with more healthy produce when we grow it ourselves, but when you do it without the use of commercial fertilizers you know for certainty that you are doing the best you can for your family and at the same time, helping to protect the environment.
Organic fertilizers differ from conventional chemical fertilizers in several ways. Of course they are organic as opposed to being chemical formulations, so when you buy a chemical fertilizer, that is pretty much all you get, while most organic fertilizers provide you with a smorgasbord of nutrients important to plants. Another difference between chemical and organic fertilizers is in how they feed plants. Chemical fertilizers are generally water-soluble, so plants can use the nutrients immediately. However, most organic fertilizers, in contrast, must be degraded by soil microorganisms before their nutrients become soluble and can be taken up by the plants’ roots. And this is a good thing because the same warmth and moisture that coaxes plants to grow also encourages those microorganisms to work. The result being, that organic fertilizer feeds plants in synch with plants’ needs. Another benefit to the fact that most organic fertilizers are at first insoluble is that rain or irrigation tends not to leach away the fertilizers’ nutrients quickly and thus they often will last an entire season.
And finally, a benefit to be had by utilizing organic fertilizers is that they are more environmentally responsible than using chemical fertilizers because the production of these commercial fertilizers usually require the use of petrochemicals for their manufacture. On the other hand, many organic fertilizers are simply byproducts or waste products. Recycling them is not only environmentally sound, by it also costs less, in fact, these are sometimes even “free” for the hauling!
Since most nutrients in organic fertilizers aren’t immediately available to feed your plants, you need to plan ahead when using them. The ideal time to apply organic fertilizers is between late fall and late winter. Thus, the timeliness of this topic falls into the timeframe of our December gardening article. If the organic fertilizer is applied during the winter months, all you have to do is sprinkle or scatter the matter on top of your garden’s soil and it’ll be ready for plants to use when they are planted or they awaken in the spring. There is no need to dig the fertilizer into the soil, thus saving on your labor. The one exception to this would be a fertilizer applied specifically to add phosphorus to your soil. It will need to be spaded into the soil because of the fact that phosphorus moves very slowly through soil and thus it won’t feed your plants’ roots which are usually one or two feet deep in the soil.
You can buy organic fertilizers that supply mostly one major nutrient, or you can buy a blend that supplies one or more of all three of the major nutrients: nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. All organic fertilizers also offer micronutrients, which are just as important as the major nutrients, but are needed only in tiny amounts. Keep in mind that organic fertilizers do not address the need for adding additional organic matter such as compost, leaves, and other bulky natural materials to your soil to improve your soil aeration and water-holding capacity. Although these organic materials do, in fact, also help to release nutrients as they decompose, but they release it at such a low percentage that they are not rightly called fertilizers.
Here is a list of some commonly used organic fertilizers available at most garden centers:
Fertilizer Nitrogen % Phosphorus % Potassium % Fertilizer Nitrogen % Phosphorus % Potassium %
Alfalfa meal 3 3 2 Manure, cow 0.25 0.15 0.5
Guano 12 15 2 Manure, horse 0.3 0.15 0.5
Blood meal 15 1 1 Peat 2 0.3 0.8
Bone meal 4 20 0 Rock Phosphate 0 33 0
Compost 2 1 2 Seaweed 2 1 9
Fish emulsion 4 3 2 Cottonseed meal 7 2 2
Granite dust 0 0 5 Wood ashes 0 2 5
Greensand 0 1 6 Worm castings 1 0 0
TIP: Use soluble organic fertilizers such as fish emulsion or seaweed extract when your plants
need a fast acting fertilizer for an emergency feeding.
____________________________________
Suffer Not a Weed: Remove weeds while they’re small. A mature weed that goes to seed can produce thousand of new weeds!
November Gardening Tips
November Gardening Article
by Neil DeWitt
This month I will discuss a couple of topics beginning with another tip concerning soil quality. Last month I discussed how to improve your soil’s quality by the addition of organic matter. Not only do we need to know what to put into our garden soil but sometimes it's as useful to know what you shouldn't put in your soil or compost heap as it is to know what you should. Here's a list of no-nos. Some may seem silly, but you'd be amazed what people might consider.
1. Anything you'd use for a house-hold painting or refinishing project, including paint, paint thinner, paint remover, turpentine, varnish, and varnish stripper. Would you drink these? If not, don't put them in your garden.
2. Household chemicals, such as cleaners and drain un-cloggers.
3. Meats or animal fats. They attract rodents, dogs, cats, and other pests.
4. Table or pavement salt. Salt bursts plants' cells, making the plants look burned. In high enough concentrations, it can even kill them. (Many weed killers, both synthetic and organic-are salts.)
5. Dog doo-doo, used cat litter, or, heaven forbid, solid human waste. The droppings of any meat eating mammal can carry harmful pathogens.
6. Drywall. It has become popular in recent years to soak drywall in water, and then add it to soil to help break up clay. Not only is drywall's effectiveness as a soil amendment dubious, but it also can contain compounds you don't want your plants (especially edibles) to be taking up.
7. Pressure-treated wood, which contains arsenic, a toxic heavy metal.
8. Black walnut leaves, bark, or chips. Black walnut contains juglone, a chemical that inhibits the growth of many plants, especially tomatoes.
When the cooler weather draws near many of us are anxious to see the end to the summer garden, especially if we have been busy canning or processing our harvest for storage. However, I can attest to the fact that it is very satisfying to have tomatoes from the garden as part of our Christmas dinner. I definitely enjoy bragging about it to my family members who live up north having had their first frost in late September or early October. There are a few things that one can do to “extend” the harvest season of their tomatoes. One thing to do is to plant a few special varieties of tomatoes that are great for storage. Among these are “Ruby Treasure” and “Red October”, (available from Burpee). If you have storage tomatoes they can be picked green when their blossom ends lighten to a creamy green color. Regular varieties can also be picked green and used as they ripen during the weeks following a killing frost. Even these regular varieties can often make it to the holidays. Be sure to monitor the weather forecast to get your tomatoes picked before a frost damages them.
You can extend your tomato plants’ time in the garden by covering the plants at night with sheets or blankets. It really does not take too much to protect them if the temperature stays above 29 degrees. Even if some of the tomatoes around the fringes of the plant are damaged by frost, the tomatoes closest to the ground or on the interior of the plant will most likely survive without damage.
When a hard freeze is coming, gather your green tomatoes, wipe them with a weak bleach solution (1 tablespoon bleach per gallon of water) to kill any mold spores, and arrange them in a single layer on an indoor shelf or table. Some suggest individually wrapping tomatoes in a small sheet of newspaper to capture the gases they emit for the purpose of hastening the ripening process. However, I prefer to place them on the shelf on top of a sheet or two of newspaper (the paper will absorb any fluids that may come from fruit that is spoiling), and I then place a couple of additional newspaper sheets over them. This allows me to monitor the ripening process (or spoiling process) with a quick daily glance. Others prefer to pull the entire tomato plant and hang them upside down in the barn or similar place. A final suggestion is to plant some tomatoes in clay pots which are buried in a pile of compost in the garden in late summer (in time for the plants to fully “set” fruit), then you can dig up these pots and bring them indoors when cold weather stops their growth. This technique can be messy, yet rewarding; when you are the one WHO has vine ripened tomatoes in winter months.
Off-season tomatoes are not quite the same flavor as your garden fresh vine ripened tomatoes in the summer months, but they still are definitely better than some of those supermarket tennis balls that only look like tomatoes. And besides, there is much joy to be had when you share homegrown garden tomatoes from your garden as part of your holiday meals. The Gila Valley is a wonderful place to enjoy growing a vegetable garden that can continue to reward you even in our cooler months with fruit that hasn’t travelled thousands of miles, been sprayed with pesticides, and artificially turned red in color to look appealing in the supermarket display.
TIP: The best time to plant garlic is the fall.
by Neil DeWitt
This month I will discuss a couple of topics beginning with another tip concerning soil quality. Last month I discussed how to improve your soil’s quality by the addition of organic matter. Not only do we need to know what to put into our garden soil but sometimes it's as useful to know what you shouldn't put in your soil or compost heap as it is to know what you should. Here's a list of no-nos. Some may seem silly, but you'd be amazed what people might consider.
1. Anything you'd use for a house-hold painting or refinishing project, including paint, paint thinner, paint remover, turpentine, varnish, and varnish stripper. Would you drink these? If not, don't put them in your garden.
2. Household chemicals, such as cleaners and drain un-cloggers.
3. Meats or animal fats. They attract rodents, dogs, cats, and other pests.
4. Table or pavement salt. Salt bursts plants' cells, making the plants look burned. In high enough concentrations, it can even kill them. (Many weed killers, both synthetic and organic-are salts.)
5. Dog doo-doo, used cat litter, or, heaven forbid, solid human waste. The droppings of any meat eating mammal can carry harmful pathogens.
6. Drywall. It has become popular in recent years to soak drywall in water, and then add it to soil to help break up clay. Not only is drywall's effectiveness as a soil amendment dubious, but it also can contain compounds you don't want your plants (especially edibles) to be taking up.
7. Pressure-treated wood, which contains arsenic, a toxic heavy metal.
8. Black walnut leaves, bark, or chips. Black walnut contains juglone, a chemical that inhibits the growth of many plants, especially tomatoes.
When the cooler weather draws near many of us are anxious to see the end to the summer garden, especially if we have been busy canning or processing our harvest for storage. However, I can attest to the fact that it is very satisfying to have tomatoes from the garden as part of our Christmas dinner. I definitely enjoy bragging about it to my family members who live up north having had their first frost in late September or early October. There are a few things that one can do to “extend” the harvest season of their tomatoes. One thing to do is to plant a few special varieties of tomatoes that are great for storage. Among these are “Ruby Treasure” and “Red October”, (available from Burpee). If you have storage tomatoes they can be picked green when their blossom ends lighten to a creamy green color. Regular varieties can also be picked green and used as they ripen during the weeks following a killing frost. Even these regular varieties can often make it to the holidays. Be sure to monitor the weather forecast to get your tomatoes picked before a frost damages them.
You can extend your tomato plants’ time in the garden by covering the plants at night with sheets or blankets. It really does not take too much to protect them if the temperature stays above 29 degrees. Even if some of the tomatoes around the fringes of the plant are damaged by frost, the tomatoes closest to the ground or on the interior of the plant will most likely survive without damage.
When a hard freeze is coming, gather your green tomatoes, wipe them with a weak bleach solution (1 tablespoon bleach per gallon of water) to kill any mold spores, and arrange them in a single layer on an indoor shelf or table. Some suggest individually wrapping tomatoes in a small sheet of newspaper to capture the gases they emit for the purpose of hastening the ripening process. However, I prefer to place them on the shelf on top of a sheet or two of newspaper (the paper will absorb any fluids that may come from fruit that is spoiling), and I then place a couple of additional newspaper sheets over them. This allows me to monitor the ripening process (or spoiling process) with a quick daily glance. Others prefer to pull the entire tomato plant and hang them upside down in the barn or similar place. A final suggestion is to plant some tomatoes in clay pots which are buried in a pile of compost in the garden in late summer (in time for the plants to fully “set” fruit), then you can dig up these pots and bring them indoors when cold weather stops their growth. This technique can be messy, yet rewarding; when you are the one WHO has vine ripened tomatoes in winter months.
Off-season tomatoes are not quite the same flavor as your garden fresh vine ripened tomatoes in the summer months, but they still are definitely better than some of those supermarket tennis balls that only look like tomatoes. And besides, there is much joy to be had when you share homegrown garden tomatoes from your garden as part of your holiday meals. The Gila Valley is a wonderful place to enjoy growing a vegetable garden that can continue to reward you even in our cooler months with fruit that hasn’t travelled thousands of miles, been sprayed with pesticides, and artificially turned red in color to look appealing in the supermarket display.
TIP: The best time to plant garlic is the fall.
October Gardening Tips
October Gardening Article
by Neil DeWitt
This month I will discuss soil quality. For the most part, if your garden plot is in the lower portions of the river valley, you will have a clay soil. If your plot is on the higher portions of our area, you are likely to have sandy soil. Both are fine for growing a vegetable garden as long as you take the necessary steps to improve your soil. Of course we all would like to have a great loamy soil to work with. No matter what cards we have been dealt, we can turn our soil into one that is productive for vegetable gardening.
Sandy soil is the easiest to work. It dries out and warms up quickly and it always drains well. However, these characteristics will cause you to have to water very often as well as fertilize more often because there is nothing to keep the water and nutrients close to the roots of your plants. To improve sandy soil, you need to constantly add organic matter to it. Green manure crops, which were discussed in the last newsletter, will help a great deal. Also, plant residues after the harvest and fall leaves are good sources of organic matter.
Clay soils are more fertile than sandy soils by nature. However, they are heavy, often preventing good drainage, which can spell doom to your plants if water remains in constant contact with your plant’s root system. When clay soil is wet, it is slippery and it sticks to your shoes. The soil becomes slippery because the soil particles in clay are flat and they compress when stepped on and this shuts off the flow of air and water to the plant’s roots. The best way to improve clay soil is once again, to add organic matter such as leaves, old mulches and green manure crops. As this organic matter breaks down, it acts like little wedges that keep the soil particles from sticking together. This creates openings for air, water, and the roots of the plants to better penetrate the soil to take in needed oxygen and water. Adding a whole lot of sand to clay soil does not work well because you will need so much sand it usually is not economically efficient and you are still going to need to add just as much organic matter to the soil anyway. Using raised beds in your garden is also great when working with clay soils as this prevents the soil where you grow your plants from being stepped on and thus becoming compressed. This also allows the clay soil to dry out quicker and warm up earlier in the season.
A loam soil is what should be our goal. Loam soils are usually rich in organic matter and quite fertile. They’re easier to work. They have good drainage, but they still hold enough moisture for plants to thrive. They are certainly the best soils for gardens. And, as you can clearly see, no matter if you have sandy soil or heavy clay soil, you can move towards a loam soil through the use of organic matter. It is important to note that the process of adding organic matter is never complete. It must be a constant process because as soon as you work it into your soil, it begins to break down and in the matter of a short period of time you will be right back where you started with your garden plot in regard to soil composition.
Whenever soils are moist and the temperature is warm, organic matter in the soil will decompose. Organisms such as bacteria, fungi, earthworms, mites and others, attack organic matter. Earthworms are probably the most beneficial workers in your garden. And you need to encourage them to stay in your garden and to multiply by providing them with a constant source of food supply, which is of course, organic matter that you add to your soil. The worms digest the organic matter and deposit casts that are high in nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and magnesium, making these essential nutrients available to your plants.
Doing a soil test on your garden plot can also help you in knowing what you might need to add to your soil to make it more productive. It is suggested that new garden plots be soil tested before you begin and it is also recommended that the soil in an established garden be tested every three or four years. This test can tell you the strengths and weaknesses of your particular soil. The pH of the soil is the primary thing you should be most concerned with. The pH level of the soil regards the acidity or alkalinity of the soil. The pH level is rated on a numbered scale ranging from 0 to 14, with 7 being considered neutral. Most vegetables do best in soil between 6.0 (slightly acidic) to 6.8 (almost neutral). Lime can be added to the soil to raise the pH level while sulfur can be added to lower the pH level of the soil. A quart of lime spread on 100 square feet of garden area will raise the pH level about 1 point, while about ¾ of a pound of sulfur is needed for 100 square feet of soil to lower the pH level about 1 point.
Take your soil sample by digging a six-inch hole and then cut a thin slice of the soil down the side of the hole to its full depth and place this in a plastic bag. Make sure you do not get your soil sample from just the top of the hole because the sample will not be accurate. Now you have a sample ready to send to a soil testing facility or you can use a home gardener’s test kit available from most garden centers.
Remember, our gardens are like our lives here on earth---we must continually seek improvement as the process for enduring to the end.
by Neil DeWitt
This month I will discuss soil quality. For the most part, if your garden plot is in the lower portions of the river valley, you will have a clay soil. If your plot is on the higher portions of our area, you are likely to have sandy soil. Both are fine for growing a vegetable garden as long as you take the necessary steps to improve your soil. Of course we all would like to have a great loamy soil to work with. No matter what cards we have been dealt, we can turn our soil into one that is productive for vegetable gardening.
Sandy soil is the easiest to work. It dries out and warms up quickly and it always drains well. However, these characteristics will cause you to have to water very often as well as fertilize more often because there is nothing to keep the water and nutrients close to the roots of your plants. To improve sandy soil, you need to constantly add organic matter to it. Green manure crops, which were discussed in the last newsletter, will help a great deal. Also, plant residues after the harvest and fall leaves are good sources of organic matter.
Clay soils are more fertile than sandy soils by nature. However, they are heavy, often preventing good drainage, which can spell doom to your plants if water remains in constant contact with your plant’s root system. When clay soil is wet, it is slippery and it sticks to your shoes. The soil becomes slippery because the soil particles in clay are flat and they compress when stepped on and this shuts off the flow of air and water to the plant’s roots. The best way to improve clay soil is once again, to add organic matter such as leaves, old mulches and green manure crops. As this organic matter breaks down, it acts like little wedges that keep the soil particles from sticking together. This creates openings for air, water, and the roots of the plants to better penetrate the soil to take in needed oxygen and water. Adding a whole lot of sand to clay soil does not work well because you will need so much sand it usually is not economically efficient and you are still going to need to add just as much organic matter to the soil anyway. Using raised beds in your garden is also great when working with clay soils as this prevents the soil where you grow your plants from being stepped on and thus becoming compressed. This also allows the clay soil to dry out quicker and warm up earlier in the season.
A loam soil is what should be our goal. Loam soils are usually rich in organic matter and quite fertile. They’re easier to work. They have good drainage, but they still hold enough moisture for plants to thrive. They are certainly the best soils for gardens. And, as you can clearly see, no matter if you have sandy soil or heavy clay soil, you can move towards a loam soil through the use of organic matter. It is important to note that the process of adding organic matter is never complete. It must be a constant process because as soon as you work it into your soil, it begins to break down and in the matter of a short period of time you will be right back where you started with your garden plot in regard to soil composition.
Whenever soils are moist and the temperature is warm, organic matter in the soil will decompose. Organisms such as bacteria, fungi, earthworms, mites and others, attack organic matter. Earthworms are probably the most beneficial workers in your garden. And you need to encourage them to stay in your garden and to multiply by providing them with a constant source of food supply, which is of course, organic matter that you add to your soil. The worms digest the organic matter and deposit casts that are high in nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and magnesium, making these essential nutrients available to your plants.
Doing a soil test on your garden plot can also help you in knowing what you might need to add to your soil to make it more productive. It is suggested that new garden plots be soil tested before you begin and it is also recommended that the soil in an established garden be tested every three or four years. This test can tell you the strengths and weaknesses of your particular soil. The pH of the soil is the primary thing you should be most concerned with. The pH level of the soil regards the acidity or alkalinity of the soil. The pH level is rated on a numbered scale ranging from 0 to 14, with 7 being considered neutral. Most vegetables do best in soil between 6.0 (slightly acidic) to 6.8 (almost neutral). Lime can be added to the soil to raise the pH level while sulfur can be added to lower the pH level of the soil. A quart of lime spread on 100 square feet of garden area will raise the pH level about 1 point, while about ¾ of a pound of sulfur is needed for 100 square feet of soil to lower the pH level about 1 point.
Take your soil sample by digging a six-inch hole and then cut a thin slice of the soil down the side of the hole to its full depth and place this in a plastic bag. Make sure you do not get your soil sample from just the top of the hole because the sample will not be accurate. Now you have a sample ready to send to a soil testing facility or you can use a home gardener’s test kit available from most garden centers.
Remember, our gardens are like our lives here on earth---we must continually seek improvement as the process for enduring to the end.
September Gardening Tips
September Gardening Article
by Neil DeWitt
September is one of my favorite months as a gardener. Fall is just like spring with its cooler crisp mornings and evenings, but without all the wind! An occasional rain is also a real blessing in the fall. It is a time when we can thank our Heavenly Father for all that He has provided for us over the course of the summer through our garden labors. It is a time to continue enjoying the harvest of crops. It can also be a time when we can restart our garden with fall and winter vegetable crops. And, can even be the time when we begin the process of building-up our garden soil to become better than ever once the weather turns warm/hot next spring/summer. The best preparation of your garden plot can come over the winter months through the use of “green manure” crops. We see examples of this with our local cotton farmers every winter when they plant a grain crop, often, not for harvest as grain, but as fertilizer for the next year’s cotton crop.
A “green manure” crop can turn both heavy hard clay and lifeless sandy soils into a garden soil that is full of nutrients, easy to work, and one that retains moisture well. It is possible to improve any soil and build it into a soil that is compatible with vegetable gardening. However, this is not always something that you can do overnight through the use of commercial fertilizers and soil supplements. Neither will mixing one huge pile of organic matter into your soil one time accomplish it. This may certainly help in the short term, but it won’t last. Organic matter is the key to creating a rich productive soul. But, you must realize that it is always temporary. From the moment you mix organic matter into your soil, you start to lose it. Earthworms and countless other soil creatures start breaking it down into usable plant food and soil-improving humus. In our hot temperatures, they will work their way through organic matter in no time, and if you don’t have another helping ready for them, they’ll die or leave the area in search of food sources elsewhere. And once you have a big crew of worms and other beneficial critters working for you in your garden, you don’t want to “lay them off” so they move on to “greener pastures”, but you want to keep them well fed with organic matter as in a good winter crop of green manure.
Any green plant that is spaded or tilled back into the soil can be called green manure. Certain crops can be grown specifically to be turned under, back into the soil while they are still green for the purpose of serving up a host of organic matter. Alfalfa, buckwheat and annual ryegrass are a few examples from amongst a long list of possible green manure crops.
There are many advantages to be found in utilizing a green manure crop. First, green manure is easier to use than animal manure as a fertilizer and soil conditioner. Five or six pounds of seed can produce tons of green organic matter. Animal manure is usually full of weed seeds that you may end up fighting in your garden for years. It takes a lot more animal manure to add a significant amount of fertilizer to soil as compared with using green manure. Green manure crops really help sandy soils to better hold their nutrients and moisture which are trapped by the organic matter close the surface for better utilization by your vegetable plants. Green manure crops provide a tremendous amount of organic material for earthworms and the bacteria in the soil to break-down for food. Green manure provides a literal feast in your soil. When tilled into heavy, clay soil, green manure crops improve and condition the soil. This keeps the clay-laden soil from baking down and crusting over as much, thus making it easier to “work” or till. Use of a green manure crop over the winter months helps to reduce the loss of topsoil due to erosion and our heavy spring winds. A thick green manure crop helps to choke out weeds, smothering them by blocking out the sunlight they need to thrive. Three or four successive years of winter green manure crops will almost wipe-out persistent problem weeds in your garden. Green manure crops act as an insulating blanket to your soil, keeping the ground cooler in summer and warmer in winter. Winter months are when earthworms are most active. Having an insulating blanket of green manure allows the worms to “feed” closer to the surface of the soil where they will produce a rich store of nutrients for next year’s crops, right where young plant have full access to these nutrients. And a final benefit to the use of green manure is the fact that these crops typically send their roots much deeper into the soil than do most vegetable plants, thus bringing valuable deeper nutrients up to feed the plant when they get put back into the topsoil as the green manure crop is tilled prior to the time when you plant your next year’s garden.
One of the easiest green manure crops to use in our area is annual ryegrass. Be sure you purchase the “annual” variety of seed rather than the “perennial” seed. Also, make sure you are getting ryegrass seed, not rye seed, which is a grain. This seed is inexpensive, easy to grow, easy to obtain, and it will grow as a rich green crop throughout the winter months. This is the same grass crop that is grown in our area as a “winter lawn” when it is “over seeded” on turf lawns.
Use 2 to 3 lbs. of annual ryegrass seed per 1,000 sq. ft. of garden for green manure. This seed is usually less than $1 per lb. The best time to plant this crop is in late September through the end of October. To plant, spade, plow, or till your soil to prepare a good seedbed. Turning the soil to a depth of 6-8 inches is sufficient. Rake the seedbed. Spread a little commercial fertilizer such as a 5-10-10 or a 10-10-10 at a rate of about 2 lbs. per 100 sq. ft. Use your rake to mix this fertilizer into the soil. Broadcast the ryegrass seed evenly over the area, then finish with a light raking to mix the seed into the soil. Finally, keep the soil damp each day, but not soaked, until the seed germinates and becomes established. Let the ryegrass grow without any mowing, continuing until you till it under about 2 weeks prior to the time you begin planting your garden next spring.
by Neil DeWitt
September is one of my favorite months as a gardener. Fall is just like spring with its cooler crisp mornings and evenings, but without all the wind! An occasional rain is also a real blessing in the fall. It is a time when we can thank our Heavenly Father for all that He has provided for us over the course of the summer through our garden labors. It is a time to continue enjoying the harvest of crops. It can also be a time when we can restart our garden with fall and winter vegetable crops. And, can even be the time when we begin the process of building-up our garden soil to become better than ever once the weather turns warm/hot next spring/summer. The best preparation of your garden plot can come over the winter months through the use of “green manure” crops. We see examples of this with our local cotton farmers every winter when they plant a grain crop, often, not for harvest as grain, but as fertilizer for the next year’s cotton crop.
A “green manure” crop can turn both heavy hard clay and lifeless sandy soils into a garden soil that is full of nutrients, easy to work, and one that retains moisture well. It is possible to improve any soil and build it into a soil that is compatible with vegetable gardening. However, this is not always something that you can do overnight through the use of commercial fertilizers and soil supplements. Neither will mixing one huge pile of organic matter into your soil one time accomplish it. This may certainly help in the short term, but it won’t last. Organic matter is the key to creating a rich productive soul. But, you must realize that it is always temporary. From the moment you mix organic matter into your soil, you start to lose it. Earthworms and countless other soil creatures start breaking it down into usable plant food and soil-improving humus. In our hot temperatures, they will work their way through organic matter in no time, and if you don’t have another helping ready for them, they’ll die or leave the area in search of food sources elsewhere. And once you have a big crew of worms and other beneficial critters working for you in your garden, you don’t want to “lay them off” so they move on to “greener pastures”, but you want to keep them well fed with organic matter as in a good winter crop of green manure.
Any green plant that is spaded or tilled back into the soil can be called green manure. Certain crops can be grown specifically to be turned under, back into the soil while they are still green for the purpose of serving up a host of organic matter. Alfalfa, buckwheat and annual ryegrass are a few examples from amongst a long list of possible green manure crops.
There are many advantages to be found in utilizing a green manure crop. First, green manure is easier to use than animal manure as a fertilizer and soil conditioner. Five or six pounds of seed can produce tons of green organic matter. Animal manure is usually full of weed seeds that you may end up fighting in your garden for years. It takes a lot more animal manure to add a significant amount of fertilizer to soil as compared with using green manure. Green manure crops really help sandy soils to better hold their nutrients and moisture which are trapped by the organic matter close the surface for better utilization by your vegetable plants. Green manure crops provide a tremendous amount of organic material for earthworms and the bacteria in the soil to break-down for food. Green manure provides a literal feast in your soil. When tilled into heavy, clay soil, green manure crops improve and condition the soil. This keeps the clay-laden soil from baking down and crusting over as much, thus making it easier to “work” or till. Use of a green manure crop over the winter months helps to reduce the loss of topsoil due to erosion and our heavy spring winds. A thick green manure crop helps to choke out weeds, smothering them by blocking out the sunlight they need to thrive. Three or four successive years of winter green manure crops will almost wipe-out persistent problem weeds in your garden. Green manure crops act as an insulating blanket to your soil, keeping the ground cooler in summer and warmer in winter. Winter months are when earthworms are most active. Having an insulating blanket of green manure allows the worms to “feed” closer to the surface of the soil where they will produce a rich store of nutrients for next year’s crops, right where young plant have full access to these nutrients. And a final benefit to the use of green manure is the fact that these crops typically send their roots much deeper into the soil than do most vegetable plants, thus bringing valuable deeper nutrients up to feed the plant when they get put back into the topsoil as the green manure crop is tilled prior to the time when you plant your next year’s garden.
One of the easiest green manure crops to use in our area is annual ryegrass. Be sure you purchase the “annual” variety of seed rather than the “perennial” seed. Also, make sure you are getting ryegrass seed, not rye seed, which is a grain. This seed is inexpensive, easy to grow, easy to obtain, and it will grow as a rich green crop throughout the winter months. This is the same grass crop that is grown in our area as a “winter lawn” when it is “over seeded” on turf lawns.
Use 2 to 3 lbs. of annual ryegrass seed per 1,000 sq. ft. of garden for green manure. This seed is usually less than $1 per lb. The best time to plant this crop is in late September through the end of October. To plant, spade, plow, or till your soil to prepare a good seedbed. Turning the soil to a depth of 6-8 inches is sufficient. Rake the seedbed. Spread a little commercial fertilizer such as a 5-10-10 or a 10-10-10 at a rate of about 2 lbs. per 100 sq. ft. Use your rake to mix this fertilizer into the soil. Broadcast the ryegrass seed evenly over the area, then finish with a light raking to mix the seed into the soil. Finally, keep the soil damp each day, but not soaked, until the seed germinates and becomes established. Let the ryegrass grow without any mowing, continuing until you till it under about 2 weeks prior to the time you begin planting your garden next spring.
August Gardening Tips
August Gardening Article
by Neil DeWitt
Hopefully all is going well in your garden and you are enjoying a bountiful and delicious harvest. This month I have a few hints relative to harvesting your crops of various produce. After months of hard work and tender care, when it’s finally time to reap the rewards of your vegetable garden, it helps to know when it is best to harvest your vegetables. This knowledge can be as important as knowing how to grow them. The following tips might just help you somewhat in picking your produce at it’s prime:
· Early morning is always the best time of day to pick your produce before it becomes stressed from the sun and the heat of the day depleting some of the moisture in the fruit and vegetables.
· Small is beautiful, tasty, and tender, too! (Size does matter for vegetables, usually smaller is even better)
· Keep picking! Don’t let plants go to seed.
· Asparagus: Snap off spears when they are 6 to 8 inches tall. Bend the spear from the top toward the ground, it will snap at the point in the spear where it is tender and not too fibrous. Only harvest spears for about 8 weeks before letting the plant grow to the “flower stage” as this will allow it to “feed” properly for the next spring harvest season.
· Bush Beans: Pick when 4 1/2 to 6 inches long.
· Broccoli: Harvest when the buds are compact but before they turn yellow or open into flowers. Leave 5 to 6 inches of stem attached. Leave the plant in the garden after you cut it and the broccoli plant will produce additional heads.
· Carrots: Pull or dig when ½ to 1 inch in diameter and before the plant begins to produce a seed flower.
· Corn: Harvest when silks turn dry and brown, don’t pull back the husks to peek at the kernels. The kernels should be bright, plump, and milky when pricked with your fingernail.
· Cucumber: Harvest before cukes begin to turn yellow, unless they are the “lemon” variety. Pick when 4 to 6 inches in length for pickling varieties and when 6 to 10 inches for the slicing varieties.
· Eggplant: These are ready when they turn dark and shiny.
· Green onions: Harvest when their tops are about 8 inches tall.
· Summer Squash varieties: Pick when you can easily dent the rind with your fingernail. Smaller is certainly better for zucchini especially.
· Winter Squash varieties: Harvest when the rind is firm enough so that you cannot easily dent the rind with your fingernail.
If you would like to have fewer troubles with your tomatoes, consider these tips:
o Choose the right location. Tomatoes need at least six hours of direct sunlight a day. Leave plenty of space between plants for good air circulation, staking or otherwise supporting plants also helps.
o Rotate crops. Many disease spores can live in the soil for years. Don’t grow tomatoes or related plants like peppers and eggplants in the same spot year after year.
o Improve soil. Get your tomatoes off to a good start by planting them in well-drained, weed-free soil that is enriched with organic matter like well-rotted manure.
o Water correctly. Deep, slow watering encourages good root formation and is better than short, frequent irrigation. Use soaker hoses or drip irrigation systems to avoid wetting foliage, which can lead to fungal diseases. Water early in the day so plan ts dry before evening hours. By keeping moisture levels consistent, you will help prevent problems like blossom-end rot and leaf curl.
o Mulch. Reduce weeds and maintain consistent moisture levels by spreading mulch around plants. Leave space around the stem. Mulching reduces the spread of early blight and other diseases by preventing spores from splashing onto plants.
o Keep it clean. Remove garden debris, leaf litter, and weeds to keep pests and pathogens away. Sterilize garden tools periodically in a solution made from one part bleach to nine parts water to lessen the spread of diseases.
o Encourage beneficial insects. Praying mantises, predatory wasps, lady beetles, and toads are all natural predators that reduce tomato pests. Keep them happy in your garden by avoiding use of pesticides as much as possible.
o Plant the right variety of tomato. Select the types of tomatoes that grow well in hot arid areas. Your garden centers or the local cooperative extension service will have recommendations for our valley. When selecting plants for transplanting, look for healthy green leaves and stems. Avoid plants with roots coming out of the bottom of the pot, as this indicates they have been in the container too long. Also look for signs of pests or diseases on the plant to avoid introducing them into your garden.
o Tomato varieties marked with these codes have built-in resistance to these diseases:
F – Fusarium wilt T – Tobacco mosaic virus A – Alternaria leaf spot N – Nematodes
FF – Fusarium Race 1 and Race 2 L – Septoria leaf spot V – Verticillium wilt
by Neil DeWitt
Hopefully all is going well in your garden and you are enjoying a bountiful and delicious harvest. This month I have a few hints relative to harvesting your crops of various produce. After months of hard work and tender care, when it’s finally time to reap the rewards of your vegetable garden, it helps to know when it is best to harvest your vegetables. This knowledge can be as important as knowing how to grow them. The following tips might just help you somewhat in picking your produce at it’s prime:
· Early morning is always the best time of day to pick your produce before it becomes stressed from the sun and the heat of the day depleting some of the moisture in the fruit and vegetables.
· Small is beautiful, tasty, and tender, too! (Size does matter for vegetables, usually smaller is even better)
· Keep picking! Don’t let plants go to seed.
· Asparagus: Snap off spears when they are 6 to 8 inches tall. Bend the spear from the top toward the ground, it will snap at the point in the spear where it is tender and not too fibrous. Only harvest spears for about 8 weeks before letting the plant grow to the “flower stage” as this will allow it to “feed” properly for the next spring harvest season.
· Bush Beans: Pick when 4 1/2 to 6 inches long.
· Broccoli: Harvest when the buds are compact but before they turn yellow or open into flowers. Leave 5 to 6 inches of stem attached. Leave the plant in the garden after you cut it and the broccoli plant will produce additional heads.
· Carrots: Pull or dig when ½ to 1 inch in diameter and before the plant begins to produce a seed flower.
· Corn: Harvest when silks turn dry and brown, don’t pull back the husks to peek at the kernels. The kernels should be bright, plump, and milky when pricked with your fingernail.
· Cucumber: Harvest before cukes begin to turn yellow, unless they are the “lemon” variety. Pick when 4 to 6 inches in length for pickling varieties and when 6 to 10 inches for the slicing varieties.
· Eggplant: These are ready when they turn dark and shiny.
· Green onions: Harvest when their tops are about 8 inches tall.
· Summer Squash varieties: Pick when you can easily dent the rind with your fingernail. Smaller is certainly better for zucchini especially.
· Winter Squash varieties: Harvest when the rind is firm enough so that you cannot easily dent the rind with your fingernail.
If you would like to have fewer troubles with your tomatoes, consider these tips:
o Choose the right location. Tomatoes need at least six hours of direct sunlight a day. Leave plenty of space between plants for good air circulation, staking or otherwise supporting plants also helps.
o Rotate crops. Many disease spores can live in the soil for years. Don’t grow tomatoes or related plants like peppers and eggplants in the same spot year after year.
o Improve soil. Get your tomatoes off to a good start by planting them in well-drained, weed-free soil that is enriched with organic matter like well-rotted manure.
o Water correctly. Deep, slow watering encourages good root formation and is better than short, frequent irrigation. Use soaker hoses or drip irrigation systems to avoid wetting foliage, which can lead to fungal diseases. Water early in the day so plan ts dry before evening hours. By keeping moisture levels consistent, you will help prevent problems like blossom-end rot and leaf curl.
o Mulch. Reduce weeds and maintain consistent moisture levels by spreading mulch around plants. Leave space around the stem. Mulching reduces the spread of early blight and other diseases by preventing spores from splashing onto plants.
o Keep it clean. Remove garden debris, leaf litter, and weeds to keep pests and pathogens away. Sterilize garden tools periodically in a solution made from one part bleach to nine parts water to lessen the spread of diseases.
o Encourage beneficial insects. Praying mantises, predatory wasps, lady beetles, and toads are all natural predators that reduce tomato pests. Keep them happy in your garden by avoiding use of pesticides as much as possible.
o Plant the right variety of tomato. Select the types of tomatoes that grow well in hot arid areas. Your garden centers or the local cooperative extension service will have recommendations for our valley. When selecting plants for transplanting, look for healthy green leaves and stems. Avoid plants with roots coming out of the bottom of the pot, as this indicates they have been in the container too long. Also look for signs of pests or diseases on the plant to avoid introducing them into your garden.
o Tomato varieties marked with these codes have built-in resistance to these diseases:
F – Fusarium wilt T – Tobacco mosaic virus A – Alternaria leaf spot N – Nematodes
FF – Fusarium Race 1 and Race 2 L – Septoria leaf spot V – Verticillium wilt
Gardening Tips for July
July Gardening Article
by Neil DeWitt
If all is going well in your garden, you are enjoying the harvest of your labors. Hopefully it is a sweet harvest for you. The time and effort you have been putting into your garden is surely well worth it when you can enjoy fresh vegetables direct from your garden to your table. I have to admit to eating directly from my garden all three meals of the day, as well as enjoying sweet snacks in-between meals, such as melon, tomatoes, and carrots. Don’t you just love summer!
A Harvesting Gospel
· When there is something big enough to eat, go after it!
· Small is beautiful, tasty, and tender, too! (Size does matter for vegetables, usually smaller is even better)
· Cut your greens so they’ll come back - - - again and again. (Even cabbage and broccoli will produce additional heads)
· Keep picking! Don’t let plants go to seed except for a few select ones that you may wish to use for seeds for the future!
· For canning and freezing, always harvest only the best---and at the right time of day! (Early Morning)
This is the month when you often find you have more of a harvest than you can eat or give to neighbors, staying up with all that is coming from your garden. This is when you reap the special rewards of being able to “can” or freeze your excess to enjoy in those months when the garden has quit providing you with fresh produce. July is also a time to make a decision about a “fall garden.” We are so lucky in our little valley to have a growing season that allows us to have a second season of summer crops such as tomatoes, sweet corn and peppers. So, if you haven’t already done so, now is the time for a second planting of sweet corn. And, this month is the time to get some tomato and pepper seeds started for transplanting for a late fall crop at the end of July or the first week or so of August. Besides planting new seeds for tomato plants, you have the option of pruning your tomato plants back if they have quit all fruit production. These pruned plants will produce a new fall crop, however new plants from seeds almost always will out-produce these pruned plants. One final option is to start new plants from cuttings from your favorite tomato plants. These root cuttings will generally perform equally well against new plants grown from seeds.
Pumpkins and winter squash should be planted this month to be ready for harvest in mid-October. You may consider planting some ornamental or decorative corn, or perhaps some popcorn at this time to include with your Halloween displays. Decorative gourds are another possibility. You can make some neat table centerpieces with these ornamental crops.
Cool weather crops such as cabbage, broccoli, carrots, lettuce, onions and beets do well in our mild winters. I like to sow cabbage, broccoli, onion and lettuce seed into a row in my garden to produce transplants that I will thin and set-out in the garden in September. Carrots, beets and even onions can be sown into rows for your winter garden at the end of July. You just need to remember to keep your soil quite moist while your seeds are germinating at this time of year to keep the soil cool enough to allow the germination process to take place. I even try to “engineer” some type of shade for these rows to keep the afternoon sun from baking the soil. Mulching the soil with a couple of inches of compost up next to where the seeds are sown also helps. Just make sure you don’t cover the seeds with the compost or they will not be able to find their way to the surface when they germinate.
If you have herbs planted in your garden, you need to monitor their water carefully on these hottest of days. They need deep watering at least a couple of times per week to prevent them from wilting in the hot sun.
Pruning and fertilizing are not a good idea in the hot month of July, with the exception of pruning a few tomato plants back for a second crop from these plants.
Planning for a Fall Garden
Timing is important for a fall garden. Most folks put their gardens to bed too early. You will be amazed at the quantity and quality of your fall crops as productivity and flavor are enhanced by perfect growing conditions in our area. The cooler weather provides for additional moisture, less intense-over-the-top sunshine, less competition from weeds and insects/soil pests, and even plant diseases and above all else, the cooler temperatures of the desert area promote tender, tasty growth.
A Little Planning Now Will Help! Fall Planting Dates for Crops: (Safford Avg. = November 1)
Crop Weeks to plant before avg.first frost Crop Weeks to plant before avg.first frost
Green beans 7 - 10 Beets 8 - 12
Broccoli 6 - 8 Cabbage 6 - 8
Carrots 8 - 12 Cauliflower 6 - 8
Head Lettuce 8 - 10 Kale 4 - 10
Lettuce 4 - 6 Peas 6 - 10
Spinach 4 - 6 Tomatoes/Peppers 8 - 12
by Neil DeWitt
If all is going well in your garden, you are enjoying the harvest of your labors. Hopefully it is a sweet harvest for you. The time and effort you have been putting into your garden is surely well worth it when you can enjoy fresh vegetables direct from your garden to your table. I have to admit to eating directly from my garden all three meals of the day, as well as enjoying sweet snacks in-between meals, such as melon, tomatoes, and carrots. Don’t you just love summer!
A Harvesting Gospel
· When there is something big enough to eat, go after it!
· Small is beautiful, tasty, and tender, too! (Size does matter for vegetables, usually smaller is even better)
· Cut your greens so they’ll come back - - - again and again. (Even cabbage and broccoli will produce additional heads)
· Keep picking! Don’t let plants go to seed except for a few select ones that you may wish to use for seeds for the future!
· For canning and freezing, always harvest only the best---and at the right time of day! (Early Morning)
This is the month when you often find you have more of a harvest than you can eat or give to neighbors, staying up with all that is coming from your garden. This is when you reap the special rewards of being able to “can” or freeze your excess to enjoy in those months when the garden has quit providing you with fresh produce. July is also a time to make a decision about a “fall garden.” We are so lucky in our little valley to have a growing season that allows us to have a second season of summer crops such as tomatoes, sweet corn and peppers. So, if you haven’t already done so, now is the time for a second planting of sweet corn. And, this month is the time to get some tomato and pepper seeds started for transplanting for a late fall crop at the end of July or the first week or so of August. Besides planting new seeds for tomato plants, you have the option of pruning your tomato plants back if they have quit all fruit production. These pruned plants will produce a new fall crop, however new plants from seeds almost always will out-produce these pruned plants. One final option is to start new plants from cuttings from your favorite tomato plants. These root cuttings will generally perform equally well against new plants grown from seeds.
Pumpkins and winter squash should be planted this month to be ready for harvest in mid-October. You may consider planting some ornamental or decorative corn, or perhaps some popcorn at this time to include with your Halloween displays. Decorative gourds are another possibility. You can make some neat table centerpieces with these ornamental crops.
Cool weather crops such as cabbage, broccoli, carrots, lettuce, onions and beets do well in our mild winters. I like to sow cabbage, broccoli, onion and lettuce seed into a row in my garden to produce transplants that I will thin and set-out in the garden in September. Carrots, beets and even onions can be sown into rows for your winter garden at the end of July. You just need to remember to keep your soil quite moist while your seeds are germinating at this time of year to keep the soil cool enough to allow the germination process to take place. I even try to “engineer” some type of shade for these rows to keep the afternoon sun from baking the soil. Mulching the soil with a couple of inches of compost up next to where the seeds are sown also helps. Just make sure you don’t cover the seeds with the compost or they will not be able to find their way to the surface when they germinate.
If you have herbs planted in your garden, you need to monitor their water carefully on these hottest of days. They need deep watering at least a couple of times per week to prevent them from wilting in the hot sun.
Pruning and fertilizing are not a good idea in the hot month of July, with the exception of pruning a few tomato plants back for a second crop from these plants.
Planning for a Fall Garden
Timing is important for a fall garden. Most folks put their gardens to bed too early. You will be amazed at the quantity and quality of your fall crops as productivity and flavor are enhanced by perfect growing conditions in our area. The cooler weather provides for additional moisture, less intense-over-the-top sunshine, less competition from weeds and insects/soil pests, and even plant diseases and above all else, the cooler temperatures of the desert area promote tender, tasty growth.
A Little Planning Now Will Help! Fall Planting Dates for Crops: (Safford Avg. = November 1)
Crop Weeks to plant before avg.first frost Crop Weeks to plant before avg.first frost
Green beans 7 - 10 Beets 8 - 12
Broccoli 6 - 8 Cabbage 6 - 8
Carrots 8 - 12 Cauliflower 6 - 8
Head Lettuce 8 - 10 Kale 4 - 10
Lettuce 4 - 6 Peas 6 - 10
Spinach 4 - 6 Tomatoes/Peppers 8 - 12
Self Reliance Tip # 21 Eggcalent Storage!
Goal this month: Wash one batch of laundry by hand (if it be by a clean plunger or old fashioned elbow grease - have fun with it!)
Ok, so I have some bad news and some good news concerning egg storage. The ones I had covered in beeswax and mineral oil ( I did both to see if one worked better than the other, mineral oil was sure easier and less messy) - they did awesome all winter long. I even checked them as late as May and they were snug as 60 dozen bugs in a tote ( it doesn't rhyme, I know). However...recently I discovered that we had a really bad fruit fly problem. It was my eggs....*weep*. (Refer to Tip #5 on April 12 found here:http://www.solomonvillereliefsociety.blogspot.com/search/label/self%20reliance?updated-max=2011-04-26T12:12:00-07:00&max-results=20&start=66&by-date=false
I called my sister and she told me that hers were still fine and had no problems. So, I chocked it up to the heat that doesn't get as intense in Northern Arizona as it does for us Gila Monsters...grrrr.
If you stored eggs, check them. If they are fine, you are likely to be better at keeping your home in a lower constant temp...like below 90 degrees...my house isn't so lucky :).
If getting chickens is still not do-able for you, don't fret my pet, there is a solution: Dehydrate your own.
When I called my sister with my "professional preparedness" (not really) tail tucked between my knees, she told me that they don't preserve eggs "that way" anymore anyway. They dehydrate them. Now before you roll your eyes and stick your finger in your mouth to gag yourself with a rubber spoon, hear me out.
How many fresh eggs can you put in a pint jar?: 3 (seriously, I tried it)
How many dehydrated eggs can you vacuum seal in a pint jar? : 20
Isn't that AWESOME!!!??? These eggs are way less likely to have a mishap leaving egg-white goo all over your storage space.
So this is the process in a nutshell:
Blend eggs in a blender (minus the shell :) )
Pour on dehydrator shelf
Dehydrate on high for 5 hours
Switch to low for two more
Take the "egg cake" and blend to powder in blender/ food processor
Vacuum seal in pint jars
That's it. There are no extra ingredients... and the best part??? These will make REAL scrambled eggs not the pretend kind that those OTHER dehydrated eggs makers make.
PS A note from Sister Juli on using a "Wonder Oven" for the first time:
Hey there! well, i was super excited to test this out.(I was able to find a used bean bag chair for $4.00, I just tore it apart & used the polyfiber fill out of it). I tested out oatmeal. I boiled it for maybe 3 min on the stove, then quickly put the lid on and put in in the wonder oven before going to bed. In the am the oatmeal was cooked. It was a little gummy, I think mostly due to the fact that I did not add enough water. I will try adding more water next time.
I am excited to try bigger things, such as roast, chicken, beans, etc. I have the pattern if anyone needs help in sewing it I'd be glad to help out.
Thanks Sister Juli!
PPS Drop me a line if you met your goal for last month!!!
And another thing....
From Heavenly Father's Medicine Cabinet
Comfrey...(say it again) Comfrey.... doesn't that sound comfortable?
Comfrey is a skin and bone helper. It promotes healing like...wow. I use comfrey root in a salve I make and it works AWESOME. I have used it on tons of stuff from diaper rash to stubbed/bleeding toes.
Did you ever see the movie "A Man Called Horse" ? In that movie there is a Sioux man who does what is called the Sun Dance. That is NOT comfortable. I have a friend who has done the Sun Dance and his mother would put fresh comfrey leaves over the wounds that are requisite to complete that "dance". He said that his wounds would be completely scabbed over in three days. Yeousers!
Monday, August 1, 2011
WorkShop!
This is a forward from Cindy Pearson...this sounds awesome!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Cindy Pearson
To: Cindy Pearson
Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2011 1:13 PM
Subject: Grafting and Budding workshop
Grafting and Budding
Bill Cook is going to show us how to Graft and Bud
Fruit Trees, Rose Bushes,
and create a Fruit Cocktail Tree
We understand it is not time to graft or bud, but now is the time to learn. See you there!!!
Tuesday, August 2, 2011 at 6:00 pm
Or
Wednesday, August 3, 2011 at 9:00 am
There will be many hands to help you do your best.
Eastern Arizona College Open Dining Hall Room
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
To register
Name ___________________________________
Address _________________________________
E-mail address _____________________________
Phone number _____________________________
Circle date wishing to attend
Tuesday, August 2nd --- 6:00 pm
Or
Wednesday, August 3rd --- 9:00 am
Cost
$5.00
To cover the cost of supplies
Make checks payable to:
Graham County Extension
Mail this registration form and check to:
Graham County Cooperative Extension
P.O. Box 127
Solomon, AZ 85551
928-428-2611
'Life isn't about how to survive the storm, But how to dance in the rain.'
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
("` -''- /" )._..--''"`-._
`6_ 6 ) `-. ( ).`-.__.`)
(_Y_.)' ._ ) `._ `. ``-..-'
_..`--'_..-_/ /--'_.' ,'
(il),-'' (li),' ((!.-'))
Cindy Pearson
Graham County Cooperative Extension
2100 S. Bowie Ave.
PO Box 127
Solomon, AZ 85551
928.428.2611 (Telephone)
928.428.8810 (Fax)
cpearson@cals.arizona.edu
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Cindy Pearson
To: Cindy Pearson
Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2011 1:13 PM
Subject: Grafting and Budding workshop
Grafting and Budding
Bill Cook is going to show us how to Graft and Bud
Fruit Trees, Rose Bushes,
and create a Fruit Cocktail Tree
We understand it is not time to graft or bud, but now is the time to learn. See you there!!!
Tuesday, August 2, 2011 at 6:00 pm
Or
Wednesday, August 3, 2011 at 9:00 am
There will be many hands to help you do your best.
Eastern Arizona College Open Dining Hall Room
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
To register
Name ___________________________________
Address _________________________________
E-mail address _____________________________
Phone number _____________________________
Circle date wishing to attend
Tuesday, August 2nd --- 6:00 pm
Or
Wednesday, August 3rd --- 9:00 am
Cost
$5.00
To cover the cost of supplies
Make checks payable to:
Graham County Extension
Mail this registration form and check to:
Graham County Cooperative Extension
P.O. Box 127
Solomon, AZ 85551
928-428-2611
'Life isn't about how to survive the storm, But how to dance in the rain.'
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
("` -''- /" )._..--''"`-._
`6_ 6 ) `-. ( ).`-.__.`)
(_Y_.)' ._ ) `._ `. ``-..-'
_..`--'_..-_/ /--'_.' ,'
(il),-'' (li),' ((!.-'))
Cindy Pearson
Graham County Cooperative Extension
2100 S. Bowie Ave.
PO Box 127
Solomon, AZ 85551
928.428.2611 (Telephone)
928.428.8810 (Fax)
cpearson@cals.arizona.edu
Self Reliant Tip # 20 Use the SUN!
If you have met your goal for this month by cooking one meal with an alternative cooking source, let me know!
And this week's tip is......
The joys of the solar oven! We've got sun in Arizona, lets put it to good use! :)
To be honest, I haven't used a solar oven yet. I have talked to several people who have. I have observed several ovens while in use, and this is my unprofessional opinion:
There are two good ovens to choose from.
This oven #1: Solar sport http://www.solarovens.org/
And oven #2: Sun Oven http://www.sunoven.com/
Reasons I like the Solar Sport:
It is light
It is less likely to blow over (I've seen the Sunoven blow over more than once and get dented - ouch! That's gonna leave a mark!)
It can cook two pans worth of food at the same time
Less expensive than Sunoven
Reason I like the Sunoven:
The wings reflect well and give it a higher temp = food cooks faster
Here is a comparison video:
http://www.cbsnews.com/video/watch/?id=3005405n
They talk about not using charcoal to cook cookies in the video...that was actually the first thing I made in my cardboard box oven a few years ago - they could learn so much if they read our tips :). Solar ovens can also pasteurize water to make it drinkable, now that's awesome! You know it is ready by using one of these:
http://www.solarcookers.org/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=WAPI&osCsid=51364099edaa88abfaf568a7ce1efa79&x=8&y=10
Here are a few other solar "ovens" (including the ones I have already mentioned) to look at an think about.
http://www.solarcookers.org/catalog/solarcookerskits-c-1.html?osCsid=51364099edaa88abfaf568a7ce1efa79
A friend of mine named Deanna has been called the "Wizard of Solar Oven Cooking". Using her yellow brick road, she has actually used the reflectors for car windshields, a cookie pan and an oven bag to make a solar oven. How 'bout them cookies? :).
And another thing...
On July 5th and July 18th in the Mesa/ Phoenix area, there were huge dust storms that looked like it was a special effect from the movie "The Mummy". The first one left 25,000 people without electricity in the summer heat for several hours.
What are some ways to stay cool without the life-blood A/C unit we are so accustomed to in our blessed desert?
I found this article (ignore the ads) - and most of them do not require electricity.
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/health/article-191204/20-hot-tips-stay-cool.html
HAVE A COOL DAY!!!
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